Wednesday 18 May 2011

Mamasita

Level 1, 11 Collins Street
Melbourne 3000


On a cold Wednesday afternoon, I developed a sudden urge to catch up with an old friend for dinner. Being a weekday, I wanted to make the most of this opportunity to visit a place where getting a seat on a weekend would be as painful as having your wisdom teeth yanked out. With all the hype surrounding it, it was difficult to look past Mamasita. 

The Bar
As we drew closer to the top of Collins, the 'where is it?' moment was quickly replaced by 'omg look at that line!'. The anticipation was building. I could not help but wonder just how good this place had to be to draw such crowds on a cold Wednesday night, but the mere thought was tantalising. After waiting an hour to reach the top of the stairs, we were greeted with a warm, buzzing bar and dining area. The wait and bar staff were frenetic (not reflected in the above photo, taken at a rare moment I struggle to explain myself). Although the decor was simple, consisting of plain wooden tables and stools, the atmosphere was electric. 

Elotes Callejeros ($4.40)
The first available seats were at the bar and being hungry, we were willing to tough it out. I don't often choose to dine at bar seats, and the moment I sat down I was reminded why. Our discomfort was quickly forgotten when our first dish, Elotes Callejeros (street style chargrilled corn, queso, chipotle mayonnaise and lime) was promptly dished out. The corn looked absolutely mouth watering and the orgasmic combination of flavours that greets your first bite is heavenly. The queso (chilli and cheese combination) makes this dish, and is distinctively mexican. The only slight flaw was that the corn itself was not terribly juicy, but the flavours were perfection. 

Tostaditas de Cangrejo ($15.00)
 The Tostaditas de Cangrejo (fried tortillas with crab meat, avocado, cucumber, tamarind mayonaise and habanero) was again visually stunning. Looking around, this was the most popular dish of the night and came in five varieties (vegetarian, fish, crab, chicken and pork). The crab was wonderfully smooth and perfectly seasoned. Despite sitting on the bench for a while whilst we were busy attending to our beers, the fried tortillas remained crisp. Rather than the explosion of flavours that accompanied the Elotes, this was more subdued and refreshing. The perfect finger food with a bottle of Sol. Another big tick.

Tacos de Pescado ($16.00/3)
Perhaps the bar had been set a tad high, but we were slightly disappointed that the Tacos de Pescado (tacos with grilled fish, lime, achiote paste and red onion salsa) brought it down a notch. The fish was fresh and was seasoned with an exciting combination of mexican spices, the taco shell soft and possessing the perfect level of chewiness. Perhaps it was a lack of salsa, but this dish lacked synergy and needed that little bit of something to bring it together. It was noticeably dry. I will be ordering the braised veal tongue and ox cheek version on my next visit. 

Quesadillas de Pollo ($14.00)
When this was brought out, the first thing that crossed my mind was 'mexican calzone', a rather apt description of the Quesadillas de Pollo (chargrilled chicken with pico de gallo, coriander and queso fresco). The chicken was remarkably tender, and coupled with the melted cheese was just heaven. The flavours were bursting and complemented each other like hot chocolate and marshmallows. The queso fresco was amazing, the quesadilla perfectly toasted with just enough bite. The only negative to this dish was that it left me wanting more. 

Enchilada y Mole Verde ($18.00)
For our vegetarian foodie friends, there are a few options available at Mamasita. I am a firm believer that vegetarian dishes are not inferior and was excited when these goat's cheese and spinach-stuffed tortillas with green mole were served up. Like the other dishes of the night, the presentation was impeccable. Seriously, how good does this dish look?! Cutting into the tortilla and discovering the oozing combination of melted goats cheese and spinach, I could feel myself start to salivate. The spinach was generous, the goats cheese as smooth as a baby's proverbial and not at all overpowering. Eaten together with the wonderful mole, it was poetry on a fork.  

Helado de Maiz ($6.00)
The sweet corn ice cream with caramelised popcorn was the most unique item on the sparse dessert menu, and the most ordered sweet of the night. The ice cream was smooth and creamy, and wonderfully infused with a distinctive toasted corn flavour. At $6.00, it was as cheap as desserts come and was well worth the change.

Frituras de Manzana ($9.00)

Although this looked and sounded like another winning combination, the apple fritters with vanilla pear sorbet were the outright lowlight of the night. In stark contrast to the corn ice cream, the pear sorbet was icy and did not have the slightest hint of pear. The apple fritters were wonderfully crispy, but lacked sweetness. You could not help but think that a sprinkling of sugar and cinnamon would have done wonders for this dish. The tequila based sauce was overpowering and felt like a feeble attempt to 'mexicanise' this dessert. 

After tonight, I can say with utmost confidence that the hype surrounding Mamasita is indisputably warranted. The setting was just perfect for catching up over a beer with a small group of close mates, and it was clear that a great deal of thought had been put into the food and flavour combinations. The service was swift, attentive and professional. Any restaurant that can make me wish I didn't have to leave despite a ridiculously long wait time followed by an uncomfortable and awkward seating position warrants double dipping. 

Casual Dining/Bar 


Food - 4/5
Ambience - 4/5
Service - 4/5
Price - 4/5

Total - 16/20 

Mamasita on Urbanspoon

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